We met by pure chance. He was sitting at the bus stop in the piazza in central Ortisei,
chatting with a fellow American. Americans are rare in the Dolomite mountains but to find
two, one an ex-man-of-the-cloth, was rather quirky!
Both of these aged gents were eager to tell me that they now live in the Dolomites. “Try to
explain the beauty of this place to anyone, and you just can’t”, said the retired priest. And,
being a man of the cloth, he speaks only the truth!
The priest is right. Trying to portray the beauty of the Dolomites to those yet to have the
pleasure, is a thankless task. Yet, for those who have spent any real time here, they are
drawn by the spell that is the Dolomites.
The priest’s opinion is supported by a weight of evidence, the single largest piece of which
is the UNESCO World Heritage Site status, recently bestowed upon the region and its
proud people.
There is a differing beauty here, and for those of my friends who repeatedly holiday in the
region – both ski and summer, this is a major factor. The pinkish hew of the imposing,
vertical rock walls is captivating, causing locals and holidayers alike, to stop in their tracks
and wonder at the spectacle. There is a beauty within these mountains, something that
runs much deeper than a jaw-dropping vista.
The people are fiercely proud. They are ‘Tirolese’ or Tirolean’ first and foremost. Not
Italian, not Austrian, least of all a combination of the two. A few of years ago, following a
serious walking accident, I spent eight days in a local hospital, sharing a room with a
young Tirolese. Over the following days, Matthias revealed so much of the local tradition,
culture and experience too me and years later, we still ski together.
Matthais, now 36 years, spent his school boy summers as a ‘cowboy’ on Alpe di Siusi, my
favourite Dolomite ski area. His family had a small hutte on the plateau from which he
would manage the cattle and sheep during his holiday from school. From being 11 or 12
years of age, he would spend months on the mountain, taking care of animal and terrain.
Such experience is typical of a locals upbringing, even for the younger generations, and
imbedded within this is a deep sense of belonging, honourable pride and understanding.
These people know the personality of their mountains.
These facts are important and their effect, deep rooted. The locals run businesses,
including the ski lifts. Governed by their values, the sympathy with which the ski
infrastructure has been developed here is clear for all to see. But the effect is greater than
that; appreciate the lift guy for brushing the snow from your chair before you sit; sip the gift
of your gratis grappa following your dinner; say ‘hi’ to the lift guy and watch his smile; ask
the piste guy, “can my client have a ride with you in your basher”, yes of course!
It appears, to my casual observation, that this mystical spell has cast its net over a very
select group – those who have been here.
About the Author: At 52 years, Tim Hudson is a businessman, veteran adventure sports enthusiast and expedition leader on skis, sailing and hang gliding.
Tim’s company, Inspired ITALY this year launched The Ski Safari – a mountain top refuge-to-refuge ski tour of the Dolomites. Having led seven Dolomite Ski Safaris in the last five years, there is no one better equipped to ‘Ski Lead’ you through this Ski Safari adventure and to discover the best cuisine experiences – Tim loves his food and wine!
He is a member of the Ski Club of Great Britain, British Association of Ski Patrollers and British Hang Gliding Assoc. He holds a current BASP mountain first aid certificate, and is a qualified hang gliding instructor and coach. He loves mountains!
Since 2003, Tim has lived full time in Italy, dividing his time between Umbria/Tuscany and the South Tyrol.
Ask Tim about his hang gliding adventure along the Kenyan Rift Valley in 1992 – he’ll bore you for hours!